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The Kaçkar
About The Kaçkar
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Kate Clow
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Artvin
- Koru Otel: If you’re heading for the Kafkasör Festival in late June, you may want to stay at this chalet-style hotel, pleasantly situated in the forest between Artvin and the festival ground. Comfortable en-suite rooms and delicious food; good, popular restaurant in and outside. Tel: (466) 212 6565. Booking essential.
- Polis Oteli: surprisingly, the local police run a smart, modern hotel at the top of the town, SW from the Koru. En-suite rooms, open to all-comers, reasonable price, no breakfast - don't be put off by the uniformed receptionist!

Yusufeli
- Greenpeace Pension and camping: 500 m upstream of the road-bridge, this riverside pension offers 2 rooms in the main building and some chalets - plus camping in the grounds. Decent food.
Tel: (466) 811 2271.
- Otel Barcelona: A recently built hotel a couple of kms out of town, by the river. Upmarket by Yusufeli’s low standards. Tel: (466) 811 3420; email: otelbarcelona@hotmail.com.

Tekkale
- Cemil’s Pension: A basic place right in the village, with some waterless double rooms, a terrace where you can roll out your bag, a couple of showers and camping outside near the river. Tel: (466) 811 2908.

Barhal
- Karahan Pension: A kilometre out of the village, this basic but pleasant place offers rooms in a lovely wooden house and a dormitory/terrace. Owner Mehmet speaks some English and can do transfers from Erzurum or lifts up the road to Karagöl. Decent evening meals. Tel: (466) 826 2071; email:osmankarahan08@hotmail.com; www.karahanpension.com
- Barhal Pension: 2, 3 and 4 bed rooms in a simple old house, on the right as you enter the village. Evening meals offered, plus self-catering facilities. Young patron Mustafa speaks some English.
Tel: (466) 826 2031.

Yaylalar
- Çamyuva Pension:
A new wooden building with 15 en-suite rooms and 4 family chalets offer half-board accommodation. Hostel/dormitory accommodation in an older building above the shop/bakery; kitchen which guests can use. The owners, Ismail and Naim, run most things in the village and can arrange pick-ups from Erzurum and mule hire. Ismail is a font of knowledge about the Kaçkar - though his English is not great! Tel: (466) 832 2001; bookings through info@middleearthtravel.com.

Olgunlar
- Deniz Golü Pension: Basic stone and wood-built pension with pleasant rooms, a balcony and a kitchen where you can cook your own food. Tel: (466) 832 2105.
- Kaçkar Pension: More expensive than the Deniz, this wood-clad pension has large en-suite rooms, a self-catering kitchen and a pleasant sitting area outside. By the stream. Tel: (466) 832 2047; www.kackar.net
- Sirakonaklar: Full of old Armenian houses, the local governor has a plan to arrange tourist accommodation here: watch this space!

Çamlihemsin
- Otel Doğa: Nearly 5km out of town on the Şenyuva road, on the banks of the Fırtina river. Rambling and busy with groups on occasion, it has single, double, triple and family rooms – all ensuite. Very helpful and knowledgeable proprietors. Tel: (464) 651 7455.

Çat
- Cancik: 6 waterless rooms with lumpy beds in a combination pension, restaurant and shop in the village centre. The restaurant is very variable. Tel: (464) 654 4120.
- Toşi Pension: Newer of Çat’s 2 pensions, it’s on the river just outside the village. It’s reasonable quality and sometimes in demand by tour groups – advance booking advisable. Tel: (464) 654 4002.

Elevit
- Kartal Pension: Rather gloomy old wooden house right by the tumbling river, the elderly owner is only just keeping it running. Basic waterless rooms, unreliable water despite the river – but the only place in town!

Başyayla/Kaleköy
- Kale Pension: On the southeast side of the village in Demirelli Kesir district, this stone and breeze-block building is tricky to find (no sign!) but the female proprietor is very friendly and used to trekkers. Basic with 4 waterless rooms. Tel 0464/659 1110.

Ayder
- İhlamur Altı Camping: Friendly Hemşinli owners offer camping on a green field above a ravine, at the top of end town near the Kardelen (see below) Tel: (537) 287 8878.
- Kardelen Pension: Right at the top of the town, and it’s a long slog uphill from the bus stop, but worth the effort if you’re on a tight budget. Simple wood-built with place with 4 rooms upstairs, 10 beds in total, and basic showers. Owner Nadir is very friendly and, as a trekking guide, knows the Kaçkar well. Tel: (464) 657 2107; email: nadirdemirci@hotmail.com.
- Nehirim Pension: Mid-range place right in the town centre. This well-run wood-built hotel, with terraces overlooking the town and mountains, gets lots of groups - so advance booking is essential.
Tel: (464) 657 2040.
- Istanbul Pension: An old building run by local women - small twin rooms, separate clean showers and good breakfasts - very central, but below the road and looking onto forest.
- Bukla Oberj: Set above the main road in green pastures at the top of the village, this top of the range place caters largely to Turkey’s upper middle-classes, but is very trekker friendly (they have drying facilities for boots and clothes) and the food is superb – they even bake their own bread. Tel: (464) 657 2055; email:reservasyon@oberjbukla.com; www.oberjbukla.com

Avusor
- Ismail's pension. On the right side of the village as you approach from Ayder, this basic place has 4 waterless rooms.

Pokut
- Demirci Pension: A few waterless rooms in an old wooden yayla building, with camping outside. Tel:0464/651 7495.

Amlakit
- Ufuk Pension: Newish wood-built pension with large dining room. Accommodation in 3 chalets and a total of 24 beds, with views over the valley. Run by the friendly Kadir and his wife, it’s a nice place if a little over-priced. No phone.

Yukari Kavron
- Sahin Pension: Rather scruffy and overpriced, it’s nonetheless the only place in the yayla. A row of wooden chalets each sleeping 2/3 people, en-suite with erratic hot water. Camping available. Phone not working at time of writing!

Middle Earth Travel
 
Trekking in Turkey by Kate Clow Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism