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These changes apply to the second edition of the book. Where possible we have given page, paragraph and line references to help you locate changes quickly. Note that text in bold is either rewritten or new route description, where either the previous information was imprecise or the route has altered due to new roads or building work, storm damage or for any other reasons. These updates will ensure that you can walk in safety. Note: The first edition is now obsolete. We strongly recommend that you buy the latest version (2nd edition) of the guidebook if you are planning to walk or re-walk the trail.
Useful information
Camping Gaz: If you arrive in Dalaman,
the following three shops stock the pierce type 190gr cylinders:
Lipitgaz, Ataturk Caddesi 126
Aygaz, Ataturk Caddesi 5/E
Totalgaz, Ataturk Caddesi 75
SECTION 1
P 41. The Olu Deniz Rotary Club have placed unauthorized signposts at the beginning of the trail. The Garanti signs have been removed.
P 42, para 4, line 2. There are now several newly-built houses here. The associated building work has wiped out some marks. Follow the newly bulldozed track to find the waymarks.
P 42, para 4, line 3. One of the waymarked stones around the threshing floor has been moved out of position. Check carefully for the next waymark to avoid taking the wrong direction.
P43, para 1, line 4. In September and October bee-keepers put their hives right on the path. If you are allergic to bee-stings you should be very careful to avoid getting stung.
P 43 para 4. line 4. Bushes reported to be obscuring waymarks here. Take care, as some of the waymarking here is missing and/or badly done.
SECTION 2
P 44, para 2, line 9. Someone fell and broke several bones trying to ascend to Faralya from Butterfly Valley – and could easily have died. If you do choose to go up or down here take extreme care and at your own risk.
P 45 para 1, line 2. Some waymarks reported missing here.
P 45 para 2, line 2. The path has now been widened by a bulldozer so many waymarks have gone. Take care and walk straight down bulldozed path to spring.
P45, para 3, line 8. The pension and campsite owners at Kabak have started to put waymarks leading to their accommodation. The true path is the one that leads down the side of Mama’s restaurant. Some waymarks are missing.
P 46, para 2, line 5. Reported difficulties here. Suggest keeping on the west side of the ‘old cottage’ in order to find the waymarks leading on. A fallen grape vine reported to have blocked the route here.
P 46 para 3, line 5. Note that the cemetery is out of sight and that the path from the main stream to the junction with the main path is unmarked.
SECTION 3
P 47, para 4, line 3. This section has been badly damaged and the trail has a deep gouge in it.
P 48, para 1, 2 and 3. The path between Alınca and the threshing floor has been destroyed by rain. Walk down the road (now asphalt) for around 3kms, ignore the first dirt track on the right, on a left hand bend leave the road on a dirt track which descends to the right, cross some terraces and descend further to the threshing floor (around 300m).
P48 para 4, line 1. The G3 path is now a tractor road leading to the cistern.
SECTION 4a
P 49 Para 5. A walker reports that the friendly imam in Dodurga village (Özcan Yücel) will allow trekkers to camp in the mosque’s garden, and have access to toilets and water. He can also provide a cooked meal for a small donation. He is also the man to show you how to pray in the proper Islamic fashion.
P 51, para 1, line 1. The new road has been widened – the waymarks are usually on poles here but look-out for the left turn up to the path.
SECTION 4b
No reported changes
SECTION 5
No reported changes
SECTION 6
No reported changes
SECTION 7
P 61, para 1. The lower part of the route from Inpınar to the road has been bulldozed to make a track, destroying the lovely old path.
SECTION 8
P 63, para 2. Between Akbel and Delikkemer road works are in progress, causing disruption to the route (and damaging a newly found prehistoric site).
SECTION 9
No reported changes
SECTION 10
P 70, para 4, line 4. The path down from the south end of Bezirgan Yayalası towards the main road has been dug up and this has destroyed the G3 track (for a waterpipe) and so both the path and most of the waymarks are missing.
SECTION 11
No reported changes
SECTION 12
P 73 para 2. The waymarks in the wood are reported to be inaccurate and infrequent. The path should be up and on your right. Look out for cairns which will point you in the right direction.
P 73, para 3, line 7. Reported that the platform under the tree has fallen down, so don’t plan to sleep on it.
P 73, para 5, line 6. The shorter route leading along the ridge to Phellos, mentioned in the text, has now been waymarked.
SECTION 13
P 75 para 3. A new pension, Dede (Grandfather) run by an elderly couple from İstanbul was opened in 2006. It serves beer and wine, has 2 rooms, and a camping ground (for more details see the accommodation page).
P 75 para 5, line 8. ‘tarmac to pass’ should read ‘cottages to pass’.
SECTION 14
P 78 A pomegranate/olive orchard has been planted across the line of the trail. The owner has made his own metal waymarks which he has placed on the trees and fence to help walkers navigate his land.
SECTION 15
P 82. The Purple House camping area/pension has been opened in Aperlae (for more details see the website accommodation page).
SECTION 16
P 84 and following. There may be barriers of branches on the route; these are to keep the goats in, not you out!
P 86, para 2, line 4. Spring/stream at Cakil Plaj reported dry.
P86, para 3, line 5. The bridge across the river at Sura is now completely destroyed, but it’s possible to wade across.
The climb to Sura is badly marked.
The change of route below is now completed, and described below.
P 87, para 1. Crossing place to corner above Sura: Our route turns left at the bridge and climb the Grade 2 hairpin track across open hillside, then into trees and through a shallow valley. It reaches a valley head with a huge carob tree. Climb a low wall under the tree and continue straight upwards across open fields to reach a G5 tractor track leading diagonally L/upwards to the main asphalt road. Turn right onto the road and walk 1.5km to the valley head. (Bridge to bend at valley head 1 hr 10 mins.)
P 88, para 2-5. Corner above Sura to Myra: Where the cliffs break on the R bend, there is an old road running up in hairpins. Climb up the R of the stream bed onto the road. After a few minutes cross L and continue up the valley. Recross the stream bed (includes some boulder hopping) and walk up the G4 hairpins which were the original road. In places the road has collapsed and the new route climbs steeply on G1 goat path to cut-off the fallen sections. Crossing an area of mud-slip on this section could be tricky in wet weather. The route here is well-shaded in most places by overhanging trees. After a prominent rock wall the route, now G3, re-crosses to the L of the stream. It returns to the R and climbs on hairpins up the R valley side, emerging onto a level hilltop. (Bend to hilltop 1 hr 20 mins)
Just past the hilltop is the old road, now a clear G4 track, rising gently, widening and passing beneath shade trees. The new main road is visible high up, crossing the head of the valley; it has destroyed this old road. Past the trees, turn R/up on G2 path which rises in zigzags to the top of the R ridge and crosses a field to the SW corner of the school at Gurses. There is a well with a bucket near the school gate, and the new road runs in front to the school. (hilltop to Gurses school – 1 hr 10 mins.)
Turn R onto the main road and walk down it for about 3km. Just past a roadsign turn L onto a loop of the old road. Turn L off this onto a wide G5 tractor track which descends to a grassy area with tall trees and ruins. (Gurses school to grassy area 50 mins). Cross this by walking first N then E and find waymarks entering scrub, and leading to a cistern and grave. Continue on G2 path back to the old road. Turn L then L again just before a house and follow a G4 tractor track to a stone quarry. Turn R and follow G4 tractor track past a house and outbuildings and over a field past a well to reach a G6 gravel road. (Grassy area to G6 road 45 mins) Turn L past 2 houses to a junction; keep R then turn immediately L onto G2 path. Follow this track downhill to a well amongst scrub (road to well 20 mins).
Take a G2 path going L/NE downhill towards the Demre Cay valley. It is soon joined by other paths and becomes a well-used Grade 3 leading down and to the acropolis. The valley below L is a reminder of the power of erosion. The entire half-km wide floor gleams with limestone pebbles and boulders, scoured out of the surrounding mountainside and smoothed by the winter rains. Gravel lorries cart off this natural building material, so a noisy mechanical moan emanates from the valley during working hours. (well to acropolis 20 mins.)
SECTION 18
P 93, para 3, line 6. Last line of para should read On the bend, turn R down a G3 path which leads diagonally to the valley floor and then the church.
P 93- 94 Alakilise to Belos: Set off NE/up the valley on the broad G2 path which runs from the ruins and rises continuously as it passes two or three tents and crosses the remains of terraced walls. The stream bed is on the right. The path soon reaches and crosses the new bulldozed track, by a raised area with a well on the L. At a strange cistern cut out of bedrock, with what looks like the remains of a rock room above it, the path bears slightly L and starts to climb seriously towards the prominent spur of Papaz Kaya. There are many goat paths, so work your way slowly up the scrubby hillside in zigzags, keeping the scree below the centre of Papaz Kaya on your R. After about an hour of climbing, the hillside steepens, and you see the remains of a terrace wall. Soon after, there is a rise to the L followed by a longer traverse to the forest on the R side. The path enters pines, then turns L/up to a huge rock close to the main rock face. Pass behind this rock (you can climb on top of it to admire the view of the coast spread out before you). A short rise to a second boulder about 80m below the rock face takes you to the start of the forest path proper..……
P 94, para 2. Many of the trees were damaged in a storm in 2005
P 94, para 2. The planned replanting at Karlioz Tepe hasn’t yet taken place, although the cedars have been cleared and the area fenced. The fence crossing place is clearly marked.
P 94, para 4, P95, para 1. Turn R/S at the junction onto a G2 path. It soon joins a tractor track which passes a well. It rises as G1 L along the well catchment and turns R to rejoin the ridge top in forest. It still rises slightly and disappears as it leaves the forest on a hilltop; turn L to see a bowl-shaped hollow ahead. On the R you can see the road and a scattering of yayla dwellings. Continue L over the next hilltop, then swing R to cross the wire. Descend a rough dry valley on G1 path with wire and then the stream bed on your L to meet a G4 tractor track; follow this for 100m. Climb over a fence to the road just N of the junction. Incegeris to forest road 1 hr 30 mins.
Turn L/S onto the forest road and walk to a junction. Keep R/S, walk past yayla houses for about 1km until the route branches off L just before a new terrace. Bear R/SW/downhill to pick up the old G3 path as it runs through cedars on a steep hillside to a viewpoint overlooking the lagoon at Beymelek and the hills around Myra. It swings sharp L/down to circle the heads of two terraced scrubby valleys. After the second valley, it rises again into forest and turns S, with a low ridge on the L. A few hundred metres later, it crosses the ridge L and descends to a newly built well. It follows the dry valley down to meet a newly bulldozed logging track; the forestry are still active in this area. Turn R onto the forest road and about 300m on as it swings L keep R. Almost immediately you will see a fenced area; about 200 metres before the fence, turn R/W onto a G2 track through scrub climbing to a low pass on the R..……..
Belen to Finike
The following replaces paras 3-4 on P 96. The G5 track at the end of the stony field area is now G6 road. To continue, turn R/SE. After a few minutes walk the road swings L, ignore the continuation to Belen village proper. For the next 2-3kms either continue on the new G6 road or follow a combination of this new road and marked G2 footpaths which divert into the forest and were the original route. Both the new road and old route converge on an open ridge
From the ridge turn R/SE on a G6 road passing the cistern, goat herds' hut and ruins of several tombs, after 150 metres turn R/S descending over the road construction debris to join a G2 path that leads SE below the ridge . After 500 metres the undercut cliff face appears on your L and a side trip to these cliffs reveals years of use as a refuge by goats and their herders. Similar cliffs can be seen on the other side of the valley. The path continues with the dry river valley below R and descends into the valley on hairpin bends. Climb down into the river bed and turn L/SE, descending natural steps formed of water-eroded horizontal strata – the trees close over your head and you could while away an afternoon in this shelterd environment. After about 300 metres in this spectacular valley, turn L/E onto a G2 mulepath which climbs out of the valley on a series of bends . Continue almost level, with the river bed below/R, to meet a G3 path rising from the far side of the valley, where it originates at a goat herder’s summer camp. The G3 trail, maintained by shepherds and now known as the ‘School Trail', enables the yayla children to walk to school.
Turn L/NE onto this fine G3 path with views of Gok Liman to the SE and contour L into a side valley onto a ridge and into another side valley, where it becomes a G4 walled drovers road. Ancient walls, field boundaries and terraced slopes indicate years of use. The path meets the modern G5 tractor road; just L is a doorframe and walls of an ancient building. You could turn R to Gok Liman (15 mins) for a swim. The trail continues L towards Finike, with Lycian Tombs lying R of the track, and after 100 metres, the outlying houses of Finike appear. Turn R onto surfaced road and descend to the town centre. # ridge to Finike 2 hr 30mins.
SECTION 19
No reported change
SECTION 20
P98, Para 2. The first diversion is about 50m past a seat and spring on the R of the road; it's badly marked at first. The second is marked, but the path doesn't continue right back to the road - you can just walk across the grass. The third starts at a turning R/downhill from the road towards a wooden house,; continue L of the house towards Korsan Koyu, the small beach close to Melanippe.
P99, para 1. Some new signs on the way to and around the lighthouse. The lighthouse area is now subject of a preservation order, so no hunting is allowed. Mustafa, the lighthouse keeper ('fenerci Mustafa') lives in the village and goes by motorcycle to light the lamp each evening well before dusk. The lighthouse now has a solar panel and a wind-powered generator, so sometimes the light runs automatically and he doesn’t turn up.
P 100, para 1. It’s possible to swim from the middle section of the lighthouse walk. Just after you cross a gully with seasonal trickle of water and before the lowest point of the walk is an open, stony area with remains of cottages and carob trees. On the lower part of the stony slope is a way-marked large rock. Turn R/E here and follow cairns towards the sea with the gully on the R. Cross the gully via a G2 path and follow the cairned path up into forest, and down to the sea, crossing a couple of open areas. You can swim off rocks at the end of this path.
SECTION 21
Some people report both rivers were so full after recent rain they had to make a long detour. Winter or early spring only.
P103 Musa Dagi to Olympos Para 2: The general direction is NW; it starts by running down to the stream bed, runs with the stream on the L; switches banks three times. Most of the route is with the stream on the R, but as the stream becomes larger, it crosses again to descend straight to Olympos with a gorge on the L. Near the bottom…
SECTION 22a
Alternative routes into, and out of, the ancient site of Phaselis
P 109. You can enter Phaselis via the beach from Sundance Nature Village – just walk south along the beach and either skirt around the foot of the headland on rocks (may be slippery after rough seas) or head inland a short way and find a clear footpath through pines and over the headland. The site is fenced at the far side of the headland, but it is easy to bypass on the seaward side. Since this detour is illegal (you are supposed to pay the admission fee), it’s not in the book.
P112. Route from Phaselis to Ovacik (water tank) via Kuzdere. 1st Para
Exit Phaselis by following a coastal track N, then over a headland and through a gap in a fence down to a small beach. Walk to the N end of the beach then inland following a bulldozed track to a road. Cross the road and walk uphill to the end of the crash barrier, where another dirt track starts. Keep up this, bear L over a riverbed, then R. Pass through a gate and continue uphill. Keep L at a junction then R at the next to pass through another gate.
SECTION 22b
P 115-116. We have completely re-marked and changed the course of route from the main road at Ulupinar to Yayla Kuzdere. Signpost is now in wrong place:
This description replaces that starting on P 115, para 1. From the sign above the Havuzbasi Restaurant (which is the best), follow asphalt L to the Park Restaurant; turn L/up and cross fields to the main road (spray only). Opposite, the route starts alongside a wire fence – follow it up to the village road (5 mins). Turn R and walk about 2k along the village road; turn L onto a rising forest track. Continue to the stream and huge plane trees above the village (1 hr 30 mins). Cross the stream (wade in winter) and continue up a bank, then R to a new shed built alongside the springs. Climb up terraces past the shed to a narrow overgrown valley; walk through to forest road (15 mins). Turn L on forest road, and follow up bends, through gate, round a sharp R bend at valley head to a pass (1 hr). 200m after the pass, turn L/up onto G4 path, walk to spring (area around spring has been bulldozed). Continue over spring on G3 path bending R to a solitary pine at the top of a rise (15 mins). Turn L onto G1 path going up a ridge, over 2-3 terraces and into woodland (10 mins). At edge of woodland, turn R onto a clear G2-3 path running almost level with rocks on the L and a slope down on the R; continue 25 mins to a pipe junction in a concrete box. Turn up/L over farmland (G2), levelling off to reach end of an old road (G5) (5 mins). Walk up the old road to meet the asphalt, and turn L; walk about 800m to Upper Beycik village (15 mins).
P 116 Route from Beycik to Ovacik via Tahtali Saddle. Para 1
The lower part of the forest has been clear-cut and the waymarks destroyed.
..five hundred metres to a fork and signpost. The route used to start here, but the area has been clear-cut and new forest roads made to haul off the timber. (25 mins) Turn L and climb upwards to a new forest road running horizontally across the hillside. Turn R and walk to a junction; keep L and continue for about 300 m to a shallow gully. Turn up this - there is a tractor track. Approaching the standing trees, climb the L bank and turn towards a barbed wire fence. Climb over the fence and find the marked path about 30m from the gully. It runs through mature woodland, crosses the gully and rises with a deeper gully on the R. Soon you turn R at a rocky outcrop….
P118 Gedelme to Ovacik Para 1.
..a drop on the L; emerge onto the first bend in a newly-bulldozed track built to install a new pylon. Walk up the track to the tarmac road. Turn R and walk 80m up the road.
Para 2.
Walk N through the felled area to a faint track; turn R and cross a wire fence. Walk to a bulldozed track and follow it L past a notice advertising the Caner Restaurant to a wire fence. Cross this to a G6 track; turn R and follow it to a junction. Fork L, and only 100 metres on turn L and climb to a ridgetop with a huge oak / mese. There is a new house on the R of the hilltop and the scrub around has been cleared. Your route is spread….
SECTION 23
No reported change
SECTION 24
There’s a bridge over the side-stream before the route turns into the side-gorge.
SECTION 25
No reported change
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